tools
Yarn count converter
How to use the converter
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This calculator/converter was written for hand knitters who are unfamiliar with various yarn count systems, such as tex, normal metric (Nm), worsted, woolen, and want to know how much yarn they've got, and what stitch gauge (tension) might be appropriate. But you can also use this calculator to estimate stockinette gauge or approximate wraps per inch even when the yarn characteristics are provided in "hand knitting" retail units, such as yards per ounce or metres per 50g.
If you want to know how much yarn you have per gram or per 50 grams, or what gauge (tension) is appropriate for the yarn:
Enter the yarn count in the second (yarn count) box, and select the yarn count type from the drop-down list. Don't bother entering a quantity value; leave it blank, then hit update to get the answer.
For example: enter 2/8 (including the slash) and select worsted wool from the drop-down list next to it. You'll find out that you have a jumper-weight yarn with about 226 metres per 50g ball.
Another example: if somebody gives you one ounce of yarn measuring 55 yards, enter 55 in the yarn count box, and select yards/oz in the drop-down box. You'll learn that your yarn knits like a heavy worsted weight yarn.
If you want to know how much yarn you have:
Enter either the weight of your yarn (in grams, ounces, pounds, or kilograms) or its length (in yards or metres) in the first (quantity) box. You must also enter the yarn count information as described above.
For example: You have 34 ounces of 700 tex yarn. Enter 34 in the quantity box and select oz as its unit of measure; enter 700 in the yarn count box and select tex. You will find that you have about 1377 metres, or just over 1500 yards, of bulky weight yarn.
Tips
If your yarn is on a cone, in theory the advertised weight shouldn't include the weight of the cardboard or plastic cone. If you weighed the yarn and cone together, subtract approximately 2 ounces (60 grams, roughly) to account for the cone.
The wraps per inch and the gauge are most accurate for yarns that are structured like "typical", plied yarns. If you're working with a yarn with a special structure (for example, brushed, boucle, novelty, or eyelash yarns), then the gauge and wraps per inch may not be accurate. The information you get from this calculator is based on the following table:
| gauge | stitches per inch | wraps per inch | grist |
| superbulky | 0-3 spi | <6 wpi | <1.0 m/g |
| bulky | 3-4 spi | <8 wpi | 0.8 to 1.6 m/g |
| aran (heavy worsted) | 4-4.75 spi | 6-10 wpi | 1.6 to 2.0 m/g |
| worsted | 4.75-5.25 spi | 8-14 wpi | 1.8 to 2.2 m/g |
| DK | 5.25-5.75 spi | 12-18 wpi | 2.0 to 2.8 m/g |
| sport | 5.75-6.5 spi | 18-24 wpi | 2.6 to 3.4 m/g |
| fingering | 6.5-7.5 spi | 24-30 wpi | 3.3 to 4.7 m/g |
| baby | 7.5-9 spi | 30-36 wpi | 4.4 to 6.0 m/g |
| lace | 9-13 spi | 36-42 wpi | 5.8 to 12 m/g |
| cobweb | 13 spi | >42 wpi | >12 m/g |
When a yarn falls in a range between or overlapped by two gauges, the gauge/spi and wpi are adjusted accordingly. If you have a particularly fluffy or fuzzy yarn, then your actual gauge/spi and wpi are probably towards the lower end of the range; if you have a dense yarn, then your actual gauge/spi and wpi are probably towards the higher end of the range.